It really is not so easy to find a proper way to start saying some things about Istanbul. The city is unique, magnificent and vivid and leaves you speechless on your first visit. It may be its thousands over thousands years of history and the greatness of lost empires, it may be the aura of having being the "center of the world" for so many centuries, it may be its geographical location between seas and continents, it may be all the previous together...The reasons to visit Istanbul are so many and so obvious, that it's really needless to argue about. Just jump at any chance to visit it. Istanbul is a city that you can't miss, if you're a real traveler.

Tell me a few things about the history of the city...

The ancient name of the city was Byzantio (Byzas - a Greek Megarian colony seeker - founded the first city there around 7th century B.C.), but the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great, decided to move there the capital of the Roman Empire in 306 A.D. - a move that actually started the period of the Byzantine Empire. For more than 1.100 years, the city (under the name "Constantinople" or just "Polis", the Greek word for The City) was the capital of this great Empire. Every Emperor was trying to leave something behind under his name (except of course intrigues, conspiracies, inter-family assassinations, etc), but the one who really overdid it was Emperor Iustinianus I, who actually rebuilt the whole center of the city, which was destroyed after the Nikas Revolt. Among other things, he built the unbelievable Hagia Sofia Church (Sancta Sofia or Aya Sofia), which is the indisputable architectural milestone of the city and the magnificent underground Basilica Cistern. The following centuries, the city was repeatedly attack by Arabs, Slavic nomads, Persians and generally everybody else in the area, who felt confident enough to try his luck. Crusaders finally made it and conquered the City in 1204, but they last only some years before the clans of Byzantine Emperors took over the capital. But the downfall of Byzantine Empire had already begun.

In 29th May 1453, Ottoman Turk Sultan Mehmet II the Conqueror, entered the City after a 53 days siege and a furious but hopeless resistance by the last Byzantine Emperor, Konstantinos Palaiologos, and what had remained of his army. A new era of greatness started for the city, this time as the capital of Ottoman Empire. The famous architects Sinan and Balyan (in different periods each one) left their marks on the city. The peak of Ottoman Empire was the so-called "Tulip Era" - obvious sign of this period is the Topkapi Palace.

During 19th century, the city started to expand and follow modern architect designs. National hero Mustafa Kemal Ataturk is another great personality in Turkish history - maybe it's the person who's most responsible for any modern and "western" element Turkey has until now. Istanbul was occupied by alliance troops during World War I. Ataturk, leading a resistance movement on the east part of the country, established with the help of army, the new Turkish Republic as a secular state, leaving out of the new constitution the "Islamic religion state" thing. In 1923, after Ataturk's success, all the foreign troops left Istanbul, but the capital of the newly born Democracy was proclaimed Ankara.

I'm not sure that I can figure out completely the map of Istanbul ...can you help me?

Well...things are little complicated indeed. Istanbul is built on the two sides of the very strategically crucial Bosphorus channel, with the northern part ending into the Black Sea and the southern part into the Marmara Sea. Generally the city is divided in three parts: the old city, the new city and the Asiatic side. Old city and New city (which generally are the biggest part of the city) are located in the European side.
If you take a thorough look on the city's map, you will notice on the left part on the heart of the city an inlet of the Bosphorus. This inlet is a natural 7 km channel named Golden Horn. Golden Horn separates Old from New City. There are two bridges over Golden Horn connecting the Old and the New part of the city: the Galata Bridge and the Ataturk Bridge.

The European and the Asiatic sides of the city are connected with two other (very impressive indeed) bridges: the Bosphorus Bridge - one of the world's longest suspension bridges - and Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge.
In the Sea of Marmara, there are nine islands called Prigiponissia (Princess Islands in Greek, because they were the Emperor's favorite place to exile the Byzantine Princes).

Today the city's inhabitants amount to about 12 million. The unquestionable center of the city is Taksim Square in the Beyoglu area in the New part, but the area where the most historical monuments are located is Sultanahmet, on the Old part. Anyway, you have to keep in mind that the city is quite large, that there are many commercial centers and many worth-seeing monuments spread all around the broad Istanbul limits. It would not take less than a week of everyday tours to visit the whole of Istanbul, although an active program of 3-4 days would most likely satisfy you.

Can you give me a shortlist of monuments that I definitely have to visit in Istanbul?

This is really a hard task...There are so many historical places in Istanbul you have to see, that is quite difficult to decide which of them you should leave out, if your visit is under time pressure. I have tried here to select the not-to-be-missed monuments, to my mind.

First one is easy...Hagia Sofia (or Aya Sofia or Sancta Sofia). For almost a thousand years Aya Sofia was the largest enclosed space in the world.After the Nikas Revolt the city center (including the St. Sophia church constructed originally by Emperor Konstantine I was completely destroyed. Emperor Iustinianus I decided to supervise personally the genius architects Anthemios and Isidoros and construct a new, bigger church, on the same spot. The huge building completed in the record-time of 5 years, in 537 A.D. Marbles, stones, columns and everything else was imported from Anatolian ancient cities and the luxury of the church was breathtaking. But the thing that was leaving speechless all the foreign visitors of the church (and still does) is the dome: 55 m high and 30 m diameter, with no immediate column supporting, makes you think that really is a whole universe "flying" over your head. For the time that the monument was constructed, this achievement was almost a miracle. Byzantines (who were really bound to make myths about everything...) used to say that God himself gave the Aya Sofia design, through an Angel to Emperor Iustinianus. Anyway, Aya Sofia monument is still one of most important architectural monuments of the world. The feeling when you're standing right in the middle of the central section under the dome is one: awe. For more than 400 years Aya Sofia was a mosque. Sultan Mehmet II the Conqueror immediately turned the Orthodox Christian Church into a mosque on the very same day that he invaded the city and during the centuries many of its unbelievable mosaics and wall-paintings were miserably covered by plaster while some others were completely destroyed by added Islamic ornamentation. Since 1935 it has been functioning simply as a museum.

I think that the second one is easy too...Blue Mosque, just opposite Aya Sofia. Ok, you don't have to be genius to realize a) what was the purpose of building that mosque in this particular point and b) what was the pattern for designing the mosque: Sultan Ahmet I, wanted to build a mosque bigger and more spectacular than Iustinianian Aya Sofia. And his architect Mehmet Aga, made a really good effort to imitate it. They came that close...but it's obvious that finally they didn't achieve their goal. Blue Mosque (which was built over 1000 years after Aya Sofia), stands there luxurious lightened, perfectly preserved, with an obvious agony to compete Aya Sofia, but in the end it's just an excellentbut easily forgotten monument, comparing to unbeatable architectural masterpiece of Emperor Iustinian, no matter how damaged looks outside and truly is, inside. Lonely Planet's guide about Istanbul has a succinct remark about Blue Mosque: "Its architect Mehmet Aga, achieves the sort of visual experience on the exterior that Aya Sofia has on the interior". And that's absolutely true, if you stand in the middle of the distance between the two buildings and try to compare their size just by the look. Blue Mosque gives the impression that is bigger than Aya Sofia. But if you check the interiors of the two monuments, you will realize at first glance, that Mehmet Aga couldn't avoid four massive columns to support Blue Mosque's smaller and obvious less impressive than Aya Sofia's dome. Anyway, Blue Mosque is a definitely worth-seeing monument in Istanbul, a perfect example of classic Ottoman design. Notice that the mosque is not a kind of museum like Aya Sofia, but still works as a sacred Muslim place for worshipers - so check out the visiting hours, because tourist are not allowed during the praying times. And of course don't forget that you will have to take your shoes off before entrance...

In the same Sultanahmet area, I think that the third choice of must-seeing monuments, is quiet easy too...Topkapi Palace. Topkapi was first build by Mehmet the Conqueror himself, and was the resident and headquarters for all the Sultans until 1839. After it's last resident Sultan Mahmut II, Sultans preferred to stay to other more European style Palaces like Dolmabahce or Ciragan. It's really difficult to describe Topkapi Palace...it's massive, it's "painfully" arabesque some times for "western" eyes and it's really impressive. Of course you should not miss visiting in there the Harem (to learn how was the Sultan's family everyday life), the recently renovated Imperial Treasury (to see among other items the famous diamonds of the Jules Dassin's "Topkapi" movie with Peter Ustinov and Melina Merkuri) and the Sacred Safekeeping Rooms (to see hairs from Prophet Mohammed's beard, Prophet Mohammed's tooth and other remains of him, Caliph Omar's - and of course Prophet Mohammed's too - swords, even the Mose's walking baton). You will definitely need 3 to 5 hours just for a quick visit to Topkapi Palace, so be prepared...

Speaking of Sultan's Palaces, Dolmabahce Palace is really another worth-seeing place in Istanbul. Dolmabahce was built when the decline of the Ottoman Empire had already started. That's why some points of the Palace are "too much": the impression of greatness and power had to be given at any cost, while the same time the whole Ottoman Empire's wealth was under European banks control. Dolmabahce is a mixture of Ottoman and European Baroque design style...it's something that you have to see your own eyes to decide if you like or not. For my taste, I think it's exactly the opposite of what I like...

The same architect (Balyan) is responsible for the other worth-seeing Palace, almost 1 km further than Dolmabahce, the famous Ciragan Sarayi. Well...it seemed that after a point, every Sultan wanted to built his own Palace to stay, using the old ones as home-prisons for his annoying relatives (let's say for other legitimate claimers of the Sultan throne...). Ciragan - comparing to Dolmabahce - is less ambitious and more modest, but in a strange way is more imposing. Ciragan now is hotel, belonging to Kempinski Hotels company, under the full name "Ciragan Palace Hotel Kempinski Istanbul". If you are not Bill Gates or an equally wealthy person, think twice before booking a room there, but if you are just a quiet properly dressed average traveler, it's a good idea to reward yourself with a coffee at the Ciragan's Gazebo and take a walk to the magnificent lobby and the pool deck on Bosphorus side.

My last suggestion about must-seeing monuments is back on Sultanahmet area: the Basilica Cistern. An imposing, atmospheric, unforgettable place. Another masterpiece of Emperor's Iustinian, the Cistern contained 80.000 cubic meters of water and it was made for supporting the city when it was under siege. The roof stands upon 336 huge columns and is 70 m wide and 140 m long. The Istanbul Municipality cleaned, renovated, made walkways and lit in a wonderful way the Cistern. You can find also a cafe and if you are lucky, enough maybe a classic music concert will be held there during your visit. Don't miss this experience.
Of course these are just few places that I suggest, but really are like one drop in the ocean, considering the size of the city and the number of monuments. Truth is that to be able to say that you covered the basic monuments of Istanbul, you will definitely need at least 1 week.

Tell me few things about the social and political situation in Istanbul and Turkey...

I could say that things are rather complicated...Of course I'm not in position to speak about the whole country, because I've seen only Istanbul, but I can guess a few things about the rest. Turkey is in a huge dilemma: two, equally strong, cultural traditions are struggling for the future of the country. First the "eastern" Muslim and more religious tradition has really powerful roots all over the country but mostly in rural areas and the "deep" eastern part of the country. Second the "western" and more secular tradition tries to lead the country into western social patterns and is mostly evident in the big urban centers on the west part of the country and the capital as well.

The current government with Prime Minister Rejep Tayip Erdogan, typically originates from the "hardcore" Muslim party, but the truth is that they distanced themselves from this pole and they can be said to be trying hard to keep the balance between the two traditions. I think that the definitive characteristic element of this "war of the worlds" that is taking place in Turkey is the female Muslim headscarf, although it might be nothing more than a symbol. While in Istanbul you can see women dressed with headscarves and long black dresses walking next to girls dressed like Jennifer Lopez or Beyonce Knowles.

A major quest of Turkey for the years ahead, is to become a full member of the European Union. Another unquestionable thing is that Turkey needs some changes in order to be a proper democratic country - at least in terms of the European meaning of the word. It is common knowledge that underneath the "surface" of democratic procedures (parties, elections, etc) the true governing power is the army. Every political decision MUST have the approval of a powerful, army-controlled committee that is called National Security Council. But wait...things are a bit more complicated than that...don't be in a hurry to contempt the army, because it seems to be the strongest factor, which guarantees the secular character of the state. You could say that, in a way it is the balancing power between the strong Islamic-oriented political trends and the "western-type" reforming powers. One must not underestimate these Islamic-oriented trends: Erdogan's government (although a modest one) is an Islamic government and its political roots lie in the almost fundamentalist Muslim party of (now accused and being one step before the jail) Necmettin Erbakan. Erbakan, leader of Refah political party, had won the 1996 elections (which means by the Turkish election system, that just took the higher percentage than the rest: 23%), but after some visits to Iran and to some other "beyond the limits" Islamic countries, it was just a matter of time for the National Security Council to find a quick way to through him out. Erdogan was the very successful Istanbul's mayor, coming from Erdogan's party. But Erdogan really learned the lesson: he gave all the necessary promises to the army, took his distance from Erbakan's hardcore political thesis and committed to the European perspective for the country. He still governs...

In November 2003 three bomb blasts took place in Istanbul killing many people over a two weeks period: one in Neve Shalom Synagogue, another in British Consulate and the last one in the building of HSBC Bank. All these spots are very central - a thought that makes these terrorist actions even scarier. This photo on the left, is the Neve Shalom Synagogue street, after the terrorist attacks on November 2003. Anyway, the question still remains: who did it? The easy answer is to say "of course the Islamic fundamentalists, to make the long story short: Bin Laden", but many people in Turkey will disagree, as I conclude after many conversations I had there with Turkish friends of mine. I don't really want to get into a vicious circle of speculation and rumors, but I just have to say that in so complicated situations like this one, don't necessarily believe what seems to be obvious...

In summary, what is the "15 Things to Do" in Istanbul?

1) (Of course) visit Aya Sofia. I would suggest generally starting your tour around the city from there. Go to the second level to the point where the Empress and her followers were attending the Sunday ceremony and imagine that you are Theodora. Go stand in the middle of the main hall, just underneath of the center of the dome and look up. That should be enough...

2) Go to the Blue Mosque, just opposite of Aya Sofia. Compare the two monuments (inevitably) and watch carefully the way the dome tries to be bigger than Aya Sofia's, but doesn't make it. Sit silent in a corner an try to get in the mood of the people who are praying the same time, no matter if you're a Muslim or not. You can find your "divine feeling" everywhere.

3) Start early in the morning your visit to Top Kapi. You will need 4-5 hours just for a quick look. Harem and Treasury are the highlights and if you are a Muslim, the room with the Prophet Mohammed's relics will be of special importance to you. I have also to make a special reference to the section with the Sultans clothes. Some of them are really wonderful and you will get surprised how updated are some of the designs - like haute couture by Kenzo or Miyake. Of course don't forget to see the spectacular view from Baghdad Gazebo, trying to imagine you as a Sultan (don't know exactly if this is good or bad, but in any case watch your back!).

4) Where to stay? Istanbul has really thousands and thousands of hotels for every mood, budget or preference. But generally you will have to make a choice by location: if you want to be in a more quite setting and closer to main monuments, you will have definitely to stay to Sultanahmet area, if you want to be closer to the city-center you will have to stay to Beyoglu area and if you want something more picturesque and a bit more out of the way go to Ortakoy area. If money is no problem for you (first of all, please make a donation to the writer and then) try "Four Seasons Hotel", "Ciragan Palace Hotel Kempinski Istanbul" or "Swiss Hotel". If money is a concern, though, try one of the small "boutique hotels" in the Sultanagmet area. There is no meaning to mention some names because there are innumerous of them, all in same good quality level of services and moderate prices.

5) Staying or not at these hotels, really worth a visit there just to have a coffee: at "Ciragan Palace Hotel Kempinski Istanbul" find a nice table near the window at Gazebo in the afternoon at let your eyes travel to Bosphorus waters watching all the kinds of ships passing by and to the 17th floor of Executive Lounge of "Swiss Hotel" you will get the best view of the city can get. Beautiful!!

6) What??!! Are you planning to leave Istanbul without first visiting a hamam? Big mistake! There's a whole special procedure in hamam baths that makes them an experience you can't afford to miss. First, you'll be given a private booth to leave your clothes and personal belongings. Then, with only a towel round your hips, you will be entering a steam room for some hour(s). After this first step everything depends on your choice, but the full "program" goes like this: About the time you start to literally melt away and wondering how much time you have till you drop dead suffocating, your personal masseur / bather takes you to a wide hall, less steamy but hot as well. Then starts to massage you and relax your body - or whatever left of it after the steam bath. Then, the masseur takes a special loaf and soap and starts rubbing you. You will get surprised and embarrassed of the dirt that comes out of your skin. It's a crucial hit to your western-hygiene culture. Ok, it's not exactly dirt (supposing that you're having bath regularly) but the upper level of your skin - something like vicious peeling all over. After this, a hot water showering is taking place and then...you're ready to collapse. You can do it inside the hamam, you can have a tea or a coffee or a sleep for some time. You will feel as relaxed and clean as it gets. Generally there are different sections for men and women and the whole thing - apart from bathing and steaming - is a place for socializing. There are local and more tourist-oriented hamams. The two most famous hamams in Istanbul is "Cagaloglu Hamam" and "Cemberlitas". The first one is the oldest hamam in Istanbul with a magnificent central hall, where some scenes of Indiana Jones were shoot years ago. Wherever you choose, hamam is a "must to do" in Istanbul.

7) Visit the Basilica Iustinian Cistern at Sultanahmed area. If there's a concert or an exhibition there don't miss it.

8) Visit Galata Tower. The views from up there are stupendous and you can watch the panorama all around the tower. There is also a restaurant at the same top level of the tower, but don't expect to have view while you're sitting in a table, because other tourists are hanging around on the narrow cylindrical corridor of the tower and the only thing that you can see from the tables is their backs.

9) Saturday and Sunday do go to Ortakoy market. The whole area has a very vivid and bohemian spirit, with thousands of cafes, open markets, jacked potato stands, loud music and all these, just beneath the spectacular Bosphorus Bridge.

10) Try to attend a Whirling Dervishes show. It should be easy as they are performing regularly in different places around the city. Of course, it is hardly possible to find authentic Sufi Mevlana followers or even somethingnear Whirling Dervishes but not too tourist-oriented show. A quiet decent proposal is the Festival of "Sufi Music & Ritual" by the group of "Contemporary Lovers of mevlana" on the Exhibition Hall of the Railway Station on Eminonu area. Note that the Exhibition Hall, is the old and very impressive last station of the legendary Orient Express - so one way or the other worth's a visit there.

11) For your night walks, of course go to Taksim area. The main road (that you have walk at least 20 times from one end to the other as everybody does) is Istiklal Cadesi ("Cadesi" means "Road"). You can say that Istiklal is the heart of the modern commercial center of the city. Everything is here: fancy clothes, traditional restaurants, hotels, clubs, live music pubs, fast foods, music and book stores, street artists, everything...just take your pick. In Istiklal you can see one of the oldest trams in the world still going its route from Taksim to Tunel and reverse.Try all the narrow roads left and right of Istiklal and look up: the best places usually are located in one of the floors on the buildings. Going down from Taksim to Tunel, on your right there's Navizade area - a small road with fresh fish stores and street restaurants with fried seafood. Of course try everything you see.

12) Try to find on Taksim area on of the best lounge bar restaurants in Istanbul, the "5 Kat" (meaning "5th Floor"). It's in the area behind Taksim Square and really worth's a visit. The view from the terrace is superb and the decoration inside is very elegant. The place belongs to a famous Turkish actress Mrs. Yasemin Alkaya. Prices are not very low but the food, the whole environment and the people working there, worth the money that you'll pay. Try one of the barman's cocktails, like Mohito!

13) One of the best alternative and coziest clubs in Istanbul is Babylon. Babylon hosts international performances. Mostly the music is world, electronica and jazz but everything goes in Babylon. The club is decorated in a very cozy way and "feels like home" immediately. Definitely worth a visit in a night-out tour.

14) What to say about the Turkish cuisine and pastry...maybe I'm not the most objective source to comment, because - as Greek - our cuisine is similar in many points. Turkish cuisine is spicy, not spicy-hot (as Thai is) but heavy spicy in a more oriental way. But the one thing you have to pay special attention in Istanbul is the pastry: if you're a syrup lover, then you'll find your paradise here. Don't forget to try also the famous "Turkish Delights" (try the best in town from Haci Bekir in Istiklal). Anyway, as it is obvious Istanbul is not a proper place to start a diet.

15) Take the 3+ hours tour to Bosphorus to appreciate the grandeur of the city. You can do it in many ways. There are state cruise ships or smaller private ships and boats. Be sure to reach Anadolu Kavagi, a small fishermen's village on the north of Bosphorus, with a well preserved castle heading to open horizon of the Black Sea. Just climb up there at take a look at the north horizon...